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Diamond
Tutorial |
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Ideal
Proportions
In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky empirically
calculated the ideal proportions of a round diamond as part of his
Ph.D. thesis in Mathematics. An "ideal cut," according
to Tolkowsky, has the following characteristics:
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Round in shape, and brilliant-cut
(58 facets)
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Depth percentage: 59%
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Table percentage: 53%
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Crown height percentage:
16%
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Pavilion depth percentage:
43%
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Girdle thickness: Medium
and even all the way around the diamond
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Symmetry: Perfect
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Perfectly aligned and formed
facets
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Very small or absent culet
It should be obvious that finding
a Tolkowsky diamond is an expensive undertaking. To complicate
matters even more, recent studies by the G.I.A. have demonstrated
that a 59% table yields a more brilliant diamond and larger appearing
diamond(as opposed to Tolkowsky's 53% specification). Jewelers
tend to confuse the issue even more, since their version of the
"ideal cut" will likely vary from day to day, as their
diamond inventory changes.
When using the terminology of
ideal cut and diamond certificates it is important to note that
only AGS uses the term "ideal cut" with respect to a cut
grade. The GIA highest cut grade is a excellent polish and excellent
symmetry. While the highest HRD cut grade is a very good polish
and very good symmetry. It is obvious to see that you can't easily
compare diamonds with different certificates. The same diamond with
three certificates can be a Excellent/Excellent GIA, Very good/Very
good HRD and Ideal cut AGS. This can be very confusing. Its always
a good idea to consult a diamond broker or diamond wholesaler when
evaluating a diamond cut.
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